Care and Diagnostics

Q&A

I receive regular emails asking for advice on care so I’ll include that information here.  Any questions you have please feel free to ask.  Even if it has been answered in a general way it can always be expanded upon or made clearer. I’ll start off with some of the common questions and misconceptions.

Q: Is my mechanical watch as accurate as a quartz watch?
A: Rarely, if ever.  A Swiss certified chronometer adjusted by a watchmaker can usually run within a daily rate of +_ 3 seconds per day. Most high end tool watches made by Rolex and Omega can easily maintain this rate of accuracy and some independent watchmakers can even do better. Makers like Patek and Vacheron Constantine have more rigid standards for accuracy.

Q: Why then would I want a Vintage Watch when my cell phone has the time on it and is more accurate?
A: Vintage watches are a purely self indulgent pleasure. The attraction for some is that they’ve  been cared for and survived for generations. For others it’s purely about engineering and design.

Q: Can I wear my Vintage Watch while snowboarding?
A: No. Very few were designed for anything resembling the sports we have today.  Many of the older models had very limited or no shock protection. If your model does, it is designed to withstand a  drop off of a dresser or a slip putting it on or taking it off. With no shock system the most common damage is a broken or bent balance staff.

Q: Is my vintage watch water proof?
A: Again, rarely if ever. If you own a vintage dive watch it must be pressure tested the same way modern watches are to determine if it’s seal is intact. It’s a common misconception that when you purchase a dive watch you never have to worry about water getting in. Professional divers have their watches pressure tested if not before every dive, at least every other dive. For a vintage watch I recommend taking it of before washing your hands.

Daily wear is fine but treat it the same way you would treat an automobile or any other complex machine. Make sure it’s cleaned and lubricated at regular intervals. With todays watch oils a service every five years is recommended. Don’t be deceived by dials that read waterproof, shock proof or unbreakable mainspring. These were primarily marketing gimmicks that were halted when consumer protection laws came into effect.

Baylor Automatic case back

Q: How often should I wind my watch? Should I wind it every day even if I don’t wear it?
A: If it is a manual wind movement the most often agreed upon period is once a day at roughly the same time.  As the mainspring winds down the force driving the balance wheel gets weaker on some movements. This is referred to as Isochronism. When a watch is regulated or timed this effect is taken into consideration. If you don’t wear your watch there is no need to wind it every day. In the past this was necessary because the oils used would thicken over time. Today’s lubricants have fixatives and stabilizers which prevent this.

Q: How much should I wind it, can I over wind it?
A: You should  use the same amount of torque when you start winding as when you finish. Enough to turn the stem and mainspring barrel. The term over wound is used often but really has no basis since other parts will fail before you damage the mainspring.

Q: Yesterday my watch was 25 seconds fast and today it’s 25 seconds slow, should I take it in for a service?
A: Not for this reason alone. This is referred to as mean daily rate and common for all mechanical watches. Every movement runs at slightly different rates in different positions due to gravity and friction. When a watch is regulated it is tested and adjusted in the different positions so that the errors cancel each other out. As you get to know your watch you’ll notice the positions it runs fast or slow in. Every person is different in their daily activity and this will affect how accurate the watch is. A vintage watch isn’t usually going to keep perfect time and most will have to be reset every few days.

Q: My watch has 6 adjustments stamped on the movement, does this mean it’s a chronometer?
A: No. The six adjustments are Heat/Cold/Isochronism and the three positions of Dial up/Dial down and Crown down. A chronometer is adjusted to five positions as well as temperature and Isochronism.  A watch that says adjusted is usually regulated to at least two positions being Dial up and Crown down as working at a desk and walking are the most common activities.  Some add the dial down position to make three.

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