Gruen 420SS with Gold Bezel

It may not be much to look at but it has a great personality. We’ve all heard that at one time or another and in this case I’m glad I took the chance. The movement is in much better condition than the dial would have you believe. And although I prefer restoration over refinishing, this one just has to have a proper redial. The caliber 420ss was produced in the late 1940′s and this is the “Import 270″ Very similar to the Gruen Marine but not quite. Given Gruen’s penchant for re-using names I wish they would have spent an extra five seconds thinking about this one.

Upon delivery of any watch that?s been sold as non working or needs TLC and a service, I check for a few things before anything else.

1: Check to make sure hairspring hasn?t jumped up onto a train wheel.
2: Check to make sure hairspring hasn?t jumped out of the regulating pins.
3: Make sure it?s wound. (Go ahead and laugh, I bought one watch as needing a new battery and in need of repair. The grinding heard when turning the stem was the click spring.)
4: Check for obvious debris blocking the train and escapement.
5: Check jewels for any chips/cracks bad enough to slow or stop a pivot.
6: Check for oil and grease build up. It?s better to have a watch that stopped and was thrown in a drawer than one that was dipped a couple times in sewing machine oil.

These are some of my standard inspections for vintage wristwatches and a good many can be brought up to running condition after checking these simple points. A watch with poor amplitude or one that struggles to run is no longer a frustration when I open the case up. Removing and cleaning/oiling the balance jewels will give you a perfectly capable occasional wearer.